Pele sensível, irritada, vermelha: dê fim ao sofrimento

Dois terços dos homens têm pele sensível e sofrem com irritação, ardor e pelo encravado ao fazer a barba. Conheça as soluções para acabar com o martírio.

Homem No Espelho - pele sensível - foliculite - pelo encravado

Por Wilson Weigl

Excesso de sensibilidade é um problema para dois terços dos homens. Não aquela sensibilidade de gostar de assistir a comédias românticas e nunca esquecer o aniversário de namoro. O motivo de sofrimento de grande parte da população masculina está relacionado ao barbear, que provoca irritação, ardor, vermelhidão, coceira e pelos encravados no rosto e no pescoço.

Por conta desse calvário diário, milhões de homens que sofrem com o excesso de sensibilidade da pele têm embarcado na moda da barba longa e aposentado a lâmina e o pincel. Mas muitos, por força da profissão, são obrigados a exibir a cara limpa e fazer a barba diariamente ou até mais de uma vez por dia.

Como o barbear é uma ação que muitos homens executam no piloto automático, poucos vão atrás de conhecer as causas e das soluções para esse martírio.

Por que a pele masculina é sensível?

As causas do excesso de sensibilidade, em homens e mulheres, ainda não foram totalmente compreendidas, mas sabe-se que ocorre uma diminuição do limite de tolerância da pele. “Ela reage de forma exagerada ao uso de substâncias irritantes, presentes em cosméticos e sabonetes”, diz o dermatologista Amilton Macedo, de São Paulo. No caso da região da barba, imagine uma lâmina raspando e ressecando a pele 365 vezes por ano.

Outros fatores também podem contribuir para o desconforto e a irritação da pele, segundo Macedo:

– Estresse

– Excesso de suor no rosto

– Banhos muito quentes (que ressecam a pele)

– Excesso de exposição ao sol

– Exposição ao ar condicionado

– Clima muito seco, úmido, frio ou quente

– Uso de ácidos de tratamentos dermatológicos

 Por que a pele fica irritada?

A lâmina de barbear causa microlesões na camada córnea da pele, a mais superficial, que também tende a ficar desidratada. “O corte diário prejudica o manto hidrolipídico, formado por gordura e água, que lubrifica e protege a pele de infecções”, explica Macedo.

Por que os pelos encravam?

O fio de barba que nasce no folículo piloso não consegue irromper na superfície da pele, causando a chamada pseudofoliculite. Homens de pele morena ou negra têm maior propensão ao problema, porque os pelos da barba encaracolados nascem fazendo uma curva e encravam com mais facilidade.

Por que ocorre a foliculite?

Quando o folículo do pelo encravado é infeccionado por bactérias a pseudofoliculite evolui para foliculite. A inflamação forma bolinhas amarelas ou avermelhadas como espinhas, geralmente na região do pescoço, com coceira e dor. Também ocorre mais em negros e mulatos.

10 dicas para um barbear sem dor

  1. Não faça a barba a seco ou só com água (sim, muitos caras ainda fazem isso!). Use espuma ou gel de barbear, para fazer a lâmina deslizar melhor. Melhor ainda, use um fluido pré-barba, para amaciar a pele e facilitar ainda mais a remoção dos pelos.
  2. Barbeie-se no chuveiro ou logo após o banho: o vapor dilata os poros e amolece os fios da barba. Ou então aplique uma toalha molhada em água quente no rosto (esse é o truque dos barbeiros).
  3. Use pelo menos uma vez por semana gel ou creme esfoliante específico para a pele masculina: o produto elimina células mortas, alisa a pele e ajuda a prevenir pelo encravado e foliculite.
  4. Esqueceu de levar na viagem o creme de barbear? Improvise com condicionador de cabelo. Evite sabonete, que resseca a pele.
  5. Prefira aparelhos com cabeça móvel (eles se adaptam melhor aos contornos do rosto) e cartuchos equipados com várias lâminas e fita lubrificante, que, além de facilitar o deslizar, contém substâncias que acalmam a pele, como o aloe vera.
  6. Troque com frequência a lâmina, pois ela perde o corte. Para quem tem pele sensível, recomenda-se usar a lâmina poucas vezes. Para checar a vida útil do fio, basta ver se a cor da fita lubrificante já não foi para o espaço.
  7. Raspe o rosto no sentido de crescimento dos pelos, sem aplicar muita pressão. Evite o escanhoar: a passagem da lâmina várias vezes pela mesma área irrita ainda mais a pele.
  8. Não bata o aparelho na pia para limpar os pelos: isso danifica as lâminas. Basta colocar embaixo da torneira. Quer economizar água? Uma boa! Use um copo d’água.
  9. Use sempre loção, gel ou mousse pós-barba: eles hidratam e aliviam a irritação. Fuja dos produtos que contêm álcool.
  10. Bem, se seu trabalho permite, procure não se barbear todos os dias. Se não for possível, tire o fim de semana para ficar de cara suja.

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